Just now, someone messaged me asking what I remember most from my trip to Prague. I had a few answers. I wrote: “Well, I went to the ugliest church me and my mother had ever seen… and then we heard the most beautiful music.” But I also remember visiting a one-room castle (for tourists at least), seeing a magical rainbow over the Charles Bridge, and arriving at our fairytale-like Alchymist Hotel.
Then the friend asked, “So what do you feel about the city?” To that, I replied: “It has nice things, but it’s far from the elegant, classy city I expected.”
Here, I’ll try to unravel a few memories and feelings about Prague. As usual, I won’t list everything I did, just the moments that stayed with me. Good or bad!
Where to Stay: The Baroque Alchymist Hotel
The story starts in the Netherlands, October 2025. I was back from Shanghai for my mother’s 80th-birthday trip. Venice had been the plan, but rain made us cancel it. She chose Prague instead. Of course, I had an image in mind: an old, beautiful, sophisticated city in Eastern Europe. At least, that’s what the movies and social media had taught me to expect.
After a bumpy EasyJet flight, we arrived in Prague and went straight to our hotel, the Alchymist, nestled in the picturesque streets of Mala Strana (my favourite area, as I later realised, since it was closest to classic and elegant style). It’s interesting that the best things are often the closest to you, also when travelling. But that’s another story. 😉
The hotel sits inside a 16th-century baroque mansion. Baroque isn’t usually my taste, but here it worked: ornate yet warm, dreamlike, with soft Enya music playing through the halls. It felt surreal. Again one of those moments where a good hotel sets the tone. I’ll keep checking the bad reviews first, it’s been leading me to better choices lately!
Old Town & Charles Bridge: An “Efteling” Vibe
From the hotel, we went to the charming Starbucks (yes, I needed my familiar hot chocolate!) on Malostranske Namesti. Walking on to the Charles Bridge and into the old-town square, I started to feel things. The style was different from what I expected: spires, baroque buildings, ornate, whimsical, a bit theatrical. It reminded me of the Dutch theme park Efteling. It was also a bit messy. But, as I later realised, under all the baroque style and messiness there would also be magic. More on that later.
Inspired by my Naples trip, we took the city tourist bus to get a sense of the city. We rode along the river, through parks and streets, past grand facades and lots of graffiti. Prague has a lot of graffiti! Tired from the long day me and my mother walked back to the hotel. But we were still in for a surprise……
We passed by passed an unassuming city church called St. Clement Cathedral. A sign outside mentioned a concert that evening, Vivaldi and Bach. The sales lady persuaded us, so we went inside. There, we found what must have been the most overdone church interior I had ever seen. Angels, gold, cherubs, just chaos. “This is the ugliest church I have ever seen,” my mother whispered. I agreed.
Then a woman (who looked like she had just come from the family stove) and a few other unassuming musicians took their places, and we heard the most beautiful music! I forgot about the ugly church and listened to the most intimate and moving performance. A lady sang opera too, beautifully. What a surprise!
Surprises can work 2 ways though, as we would find out the next morning….
The one-room Prague Castle
Prague Castle, built in the 16th century, also serves as the president’s residence. My mother had been looking forward to visiting this one. So we got up on a beautiful sunny morning early and went. Whereas we expected to see many grand rooms (like in Istanbul’s palaces), we were only allowed into one! So much for a tourist trap. I still haven’t figured it out. And the room was not interesting either!
At least the courtyard outside was lovely, and we enjoyed exploring the Golden Lane nearby.
China Saves the National Museum
The Prague National Museum was recommended on Google with five stars. I was suspicious. To me, it felt like an old, outdated state museum without a clear theme. But still, the fear of missing out (as is often the case) made us go. The building looked grand from outside but felt dated and lifeless inside.
Just as we were about to leave, my mother spotted something glowing down a corridor. It was a Chinese Imperial Treasures exhibition, bright, modern, beautifully curated with animated walls and digital art.
For someone who has lived in China for 20 years, I smiled. China had saved the day!
Jewish Quarter; Children’s holocaust drawings & Last morning Gift
A friend of my mother had advised us to visit the Jewish Quarter, which included an ancient Jewish cemetery. Inside one of the buildings, there was an area that was deeply moving. We saw drawings made by children during their time in the Terezín Ghetto camp. Some showed train cars; others, the rooms they were kept in with friends and guards. It was heavy and surreal to see. Even more so knowing that most of the children likely never survived.
On our final morning, I got up early to photograph the Charles Bridge before the crowds. It was still dark. I stood next to a man who seemed to be a professional photographer, and together we waited for a perfect shot of the bridge tower. The sky started to change slowly. Then, when you see everyone pointing their phones the other way…you realise you’re doing something wrong. I turned around and saw the most beautiful rainbow: a full, clean one against a pink, glowing sky. Again an unexpected surprise and more beautiful than the bridge tower for sure
Final Thoughts: Why Prague Surprised Me
Prague felt whimsical, oubollig (a bit old-fashioned or overdone), and messy.. But unexpected surprises make travel also great. Maybe that sums up Prague for me: not elegant, not subtle, but capable of giving magic when you least expect it.
I will return in Doha, Qatar. Stay tuned!
