Thijs - Wander & Travel Stories

Zhangjiajie: Avatar Mountains & Chinese Disneyland

By Thijs May 19, 2026

“Is this not a busy day then?” I asked my tour guide Phoenix while standing on Tianzi Mountain surrounded by thousands of Chinese tourists all trying to catch a glimpse of the strange avatar-like sandstone pillars.

“No,” she said. “This is just a normal day.”

Only a few hours earlier on my first morning she had assured me today would not be crowded. I guess her definition of a busy day clearly differed from mine…

There were still some places in China I had never been to. One of them was Zhangjiajie in China’s Hunan province. Often referred to as the “Avatar mountains,” supposedly because the floating mountains in the movie Avatar were inspired by this area.

Tianzi Mountain

After a two-hour flight from Shanghai, I arrived in Wulingyuan the night before. The bus picked us up at 8 AM. Everyone had to bring their passport because the ticket system now works with facial recognition and passport scanning. Although convenient, I rather leave my passport in the safety box. And apparently two American tourists in my group thought the same, because they had forgotten their passports.

Which meant close to an hour delay at the entrance while more and more people kept arriving behind us.

Not ideal.

After finally entering the park, we moved from place to place by bus. Every stop revealed another version of the same landscape, although the scale kept increasing.

When we reached Tianzi Mountain, I finally got the view I had imagined before coming here. A huge valley filled with strange sandstone pillars disappearing into the distance. It really did feel like another world. Unlike the more flowing mountain scenery in Guilin or Huangshan, these pillars rose almost unnaturally straight from the ground.

And for a while I forgot about the many crowds behind me.

Charming Xiangxi Performance

At night I went to a performance recommended by my tour guide. The show was called Charming Xiangxi and it was actually very cool. Impressive stage sets, lighting, music and acrobats, all following ancient Chinese storylines and local traditions.

The environment helped too, with rivers and mountains surrounding the theater area. It gave the whole evening a slightly magical feeling.

Scary Glass Bridge & Bungee Jumpers

The next morning we faced something that could probably nerve wreck anyone scared of heights. After around one hour on the bus and a cable car ride up, we arrived at what is supposedly the highest glass bridge in the world, located inside the Zhangjiajie Grand Canyon.

I must admit it affected me too.

Looking hundreds of meters down into the valley below felt slightly terrifying. So from time to time I found myself carefully moving toward the edges instead of looking directly beneath my feet.

Then suddenly we noticed a platform underneath the bridge and saw someone making a bungee jump into the canyon below. I guess people have different anxiety levels.

24 Escalators to Heaven or Disneyland?

After several more bus rides we arrived at the famous Tianmen Mountain. The mountain is instantly recognizable because of the bizarre-looking arch near the top, known as Heaven’s Gate.

Apparently a Frenchman once climbed the mountain without ropes back in 2009. Take that bungee jumpers, I thought 😉

Our group, including me, was quite happy to take the cable car instead. After that came no fewer than 24 escalators built directly into the mountain itself.

Along the way many overly excited Chinese tourists tried to high-five us while passing us on the downward escalators. And at the 2000-meter summit?

Thousands of tourists and a Burger King. Only in China.

At times it honestly felt more like Disneyland than a mountain park. Luckily some of the cliff-edge walkways were still very beautiful. As a reflection I would say Zhangjiajie does have really unique nature. But I preferred my trips to Guilin, Chongzuo or Yunnan more as it would be more spread out and not so focused on one single mountain with many people. Still it is worth the visit, just don’t mind the crowds ;).

Qingdao, 2 days of coastal vibes and heritage charm

By Thijs April 15, 2026

There is something about cities that once hosted the Olympics or a World Cup. When I walked from my hotel to the Qingdao Marina on my first morning, I felt that vibe. It had once been the center of world’s attention.

In Qingdao’s case, hosting the sailing competitions of the Beijing 2008 Olympics left behind a clean marina, a nicely placed large torch surrounded by Olympic and national flags, and a layout that still looks the part. Early in the morning, I found myself almost alone, alongside a few joggers, enjoying the sea breeze and sunny Qingdao weather.

After wandering around the marina, I continued along the coastline. People were relaxed, sitting in lounge chairs, sipping orange juice and looking out over the sea. The mix of beach, marina and modern skyscrapers makes Qingdao known as one of the best livable cities in China.

But as often, it was history that became the biggest draw.. Around 30 minutes walking from the marina, I wandered into an area that felt prettier and prettier. Tree-lined ocean walkways, viewpoints, leafy streets with what looked like colonial villas, and small parks with quiet pathways. I later learned this was the Badeguan scenic area, built between 1900 and 1930 by German and other European settlers.

The area is well preserved by the local government and remains peaceful. It feels like a quieter version of the French Concession in Shanghai, but then by the ocean.

Walking further, I entered Qingdao’s old commercial town. Also built in the same period, this was the more commercial side. Today, many local restaurants and shops have taken over, but some impressive historic buildings remain. The St. Michael’s Cathedral stands out, as well as a few former administrative buildings from the German period.

I ended the day at the Tsingtau Club, once a clubhouse for European residents. The name reflects the early spelling of what became China’s most famous beer: Tsingtao.

Tsingtao Beer Museum

The next day I visited the Tsingtao Beer Museum, located in the original brewery. The visit was a bit chaotic. I was assigned an “English-speaking” guide, who I think had memorised the exact words to say at each stop, but without really speaking the language…

It made the explanations hard to follow, and with the guide moving quickly there was little time to read the signs. Still, I got the general idea and it was a fun visit. Learning about the history and ending with a fresh Tsingtao beer was a nice touch. After drinking so many of them over the years in China, it felt right to finally visit where it all started for me.

That afternoon I returned to Badeguan. To wander again, sit in the parks, and imagine the life that once was there, and in many ways still is. Some villas are open to the public, and I visited a few, including the Huashi (Flower Stone) House, a castle-like residence built by a wealthy Chinese merchant in the early 1900’s.

Reflection

Qingdao surprised me. It has more to offer than I expected: coastal, relaxed, with real charm in places like Badeguan, combined with history, beer culture and a modern side.

Qingdao might no longer be at the center of the world’s attention, but it doesn’t need to be. And with only a 40-minute flight from Shanghai, it makes for a perfect few days away.

Penang 5 Days: Relaxing Feringghi and Disappointing Georgetown

By Thijs March 28, 2026

Before going to Kuala Lumpur, it was my plan to go to Penang. Not necessarily because I had special feelings for it, but because Shanghai had a direct flight and I had never been there. And who minds a tropical island anyway ;). So after I got my passport back, I thought the time was right. I decided to take the bus (6 hours) to Penang from Kuala Lumpur. At the cost of only 40 Ringgit (10 USD), I was set and we took off at 3:40 PM from KL Sentral.

The bus ride was smooth until the end. But this time, after getting out and waving the bus off, I realized I left my suitcase in the compartment. After a period of despair, I went to the train station help desk. There, a not-too-friendly person was first scolding me for how I could forget the suitcase. “Were you sleeping?” he said. I said, “Yes, I was.” Then he had that look on his face like, “There we have one again.” Reluctantly, he did help me contact the Aerocity Bus 24 hours hotline, but to no avail. I decided to go to my hotel and try the next day.

Back to the 1990s in the Park Royal Penang

Waking up the next day in the ParkRoyal hotel, I was greeted by a group of rather large monkeys having a picnic on my balcony. I got hold of the Aerocity help desk and was able to pick up my luggage at 12 pm from the station. After getting my suitcase back and tipping the bus driver, a Russian woman walked up to me out of nowhere, telling me that Malaysians can be trusted to return belongings. She said it was a beautiful story. I agreed. My Penang holiday was set to start.

The ParkRoyal is a hotel brand I know from Singapore, where they have a fine and unique hotel on Pickering Street. The one in Penang is a bit different. It is the kind of place that was probably built 30 years ago, and since then they have maintained things but never really upgraded or replaced anything. Walking through the hotel felt like stepping into the 1990s. The mostly elderly British guests did not seem to mind, so I decided to blend in and have a nice afternoon at the pool.

The 1990s were not so bad.

Feringghi

Ferringhi, where the ParkRoyal is located, is a small beach resort. It has some nice cafés (including a very nice Starbucks with great ocean views). I also went to Bora Bora beach club, which had good vibes and a great sunset.

The town and beach area start to feel alive around 6:30 pm, as Penang is very hot and humid until early evening. That heat also determined my next day’s sightseeing. I decided to visit Penang Hill, a place set up by British colonialists in the 1800s as a refuge from the intense heat.

Cooling off on Penang Hill

The next day, after buying a ticket, we entered the train that takes you up the hill. It was entertaining, with nice views, and within no time I found myself at 800-meters, with cooler temperatures (about 4 degrees less).

As for the touristic sights, I did think Penang Hill was a bit disappointing. Overly commercial, and we could not enter a single old colonial building, only look at them from a distance. The best the tour guide could do was let me touch a postal box from Queen Victoria’s time. So that was at least something.

Luckily, the environment was nice, and so were the views. If I visit Penang Hill again, I would probably hike up and down, as it looked beautiful with well-kept walkways. It’s only a few hours, you just have to start early I guess.

Georgetown

After Penang Hill, I decided to check out Georgetown, where I would stay for two days. After a slightly stressful taxi ride, where the driver warned me not to spill a single drop of water from the paper Starbucks cup I was carrying, we arrived.

Georgetown center is the main city on Penang island, and the old center consists of British-built houses and buildings from the 1800s. After enjoying Malacca so much, I had high expectations, which maybe did not help.

On paper Georgetown has a lot of elements, but I felt no vibe; it was maybe too spread out. And despite having some cool cafés and restaurants, the buildings and streets felt neglected, run-down, and chaotic. On top of that, the place was not very walkable. Just like on Penang Hill, I think they could do a much better job preserving the historic sights for tourists.

The Pinang Peranakan Mansion is worth a visit (although I liked the one in the more polished Malacca much more), as well as the Penang History Gallery, which recreates complete scenes from Georgetown in the 1900s, making it feel immersive and real.

*Recreation of Penang during Japanese bombing raids 1940’s*

Online, many people seem to rave about Georgetown, but it was not for me.

Reunited with my suitcase and passport, it was time to return to Shanghai.

Kuala Lumpur: A week without my passport

By Thijs March 18, 2026

There is a first time for everything. Losing my passport is one of those. I never thought it would happen to me and when I travel I always compulsively check if it is still there. But that Monday afternoon, March 2nd, when I arrived at the Mandarin Oriental near KLCC, I could not find it. Did I leave it at the airport? Or did it fall out while rushing out of the taxi in heavy rain because the traffic was not moving? I still don’t know.

What I do know is that it gave me something unexpected: a full week in Kuala Lumpur.

The next morning, March 3, morning I was at the Dang Wangi police station for a mandatory missing passport report. After being sent to several floors I ended up waiting a long time in a room full of other people. And the occasional inmate, shackled, looking confused and passing by.

A German couple who had exactly the same ordeal were sitting next to me. After almost two hours of waiting I suddenly learned the report required a cash payment of two Malaysian ringgit, about fifty euro cents. Unfortunately I had no cash. Paying meant going to an ATM and repeating everything again. The waiting, the floors, the paperwork. After hearing from the German couple that I was “the nicest Dutchman they had met”, I took the gamble and asked if they could lend me two ringgit, adding that I had never begged anyone for money in my life. They laughed and happily gave it to me. I was saved.

Dutch Embassy Kuala Lumpur

The Dutch Embassy was another surprise. In many cities Dutch embassies are large villas or impressive buildings like in Tokyo, Bangkok or Beijing. In Kuala Lumpur it turned out to be basically a small studio apartment with one non-Dutch person working there. The Dutch taxpayer can be happy, I thought. For my new passport I had to wait (only) five working days, so it was time to explore the city.

KLCC Park

The embassy happened to be located right next to KLCC Park, the same park where my hotel was. The park sits between the Petronas Towers, several skyscrapers and the Suria KLCC mall, yet somehow feels green and relaxed. It had that nice feeling of being connected and dynamic, yet also peaceful. Over the week I kept coming back here.

At the park I started to notice the crowds in Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia is interesting in that it is not always clear who is local and who is not. The population is made up of Malays, Malaysian Chinese and Indians, and you see that mix everywhere, giving the city a less uniform character. At times a bit confusing, but also diverse and interesting. A taxi driver told me they all get along well, and from what I saw that seemed to be true. Most people were friendly.

Chinatown

Now it was time for the hop-on hop-off bus. I had to go early, as the traffic in KL felt more intense than 12 years ago when I was last here. Ramadan didn’t help. I guess being hungry makes everyone leave earlier, as the jams already started around 4 pm.

Chinatown is usually not my favorite. Many of them feel loud and touristy. But the one in Kuala Lumpur surprised me. Discovering it was actually a coincidence. The main Petaling Street area felt slightly disappointing at first and when I reached the bus stop I missed the bus by about five seconds. So I had some time to explore more. That turned out to be a good thing because I discovered smaller streets with cafés, interesting lighting and a much nicer atmosphere. Sometimes missing something leads you to something better. From Chinatown it is also easy to walk toward Merdeka Square where Malaysia declared independence, surrounded by old British colonial buildings.

Over the following days I wandered through many other parts of the city as well, from the busy Bukit Bintang and Jalan Alor area to the botanical gardens and bird park, where birds fly freely around you in a mix of beauty and slight stress. I also stopped at the rather over-commercial Thean Hou temple, which was not worth it, and spent time in several of Kuala Lumpur’s large shopping malls, with the new TRX Exchange standing out the most.

Visiting Malacca

Then a nice moment came when an Italian tourist I met at a vegan café tipped me to go to Malacca, a historically famous trading city with strong Dutch roots. So I went.

Standing on the hill in Malacca where Dutch officers were buried in the old church, I was reading stone texts written in old Dutch. I could recognize words but still needed the English translation to fully understand them. Having a beer with a Dutch person from the 1600s would probably not have gone very well, I thought.

The red colonial buildings, painted later by the British, were interesting, but the real highlight for me was the Chinatown across the street. Much of that area had originally been built by the Dutch after reclaiming land from the sea. Chinese traders later settled there and the neighborhood slowly became Chinatown, which means it is basically a Dutch-built Chinatown.

It felt charming and delicate. The Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum, showcasing the history of the local Peranakan Chinese-Malay community, was a highlight.

On my last day I returned to the small studio apartment that is the Dutch Embassy. This time when I walked out I was a man with a passport again. And after seven days it felt like a good time for a new place, Penang Island. More on that in the next blog post.

Reflection

For me Kuala Lumpur is a nice city. Not as chaotic as Bangkok or Jakarta, but not as organized as Singapore or Shanghai either. It sits somewhere in between. The people are friendly, English is easy, it is relatively cheap (not unimportant), and the traffic is manageable if you avoid Ramadan afternoons. It might miss a bit of character at times, but it makes up for it in convenience. Not a bad place to lose your passport.

Some extra tips

-For really nice and fine vegan food. Visit Kuki Vegan in KL. Vegan restaurants are often not that tasty but this one delivers.

-If you want to escape Kuala Lumpur central visit Sentul Depot area and Bistro Richard. It is a 20 minute ride but nice, spacious and peaceful.

Luang Prabang: A Charming 2 Days

By Thijs February 18, 2026

“I would like to sit here, can we switch?” This came from a scary-looking foreign tourist on the China–Laos train bound for Luang Prabang. It was a bit of a shock, why would someone even ask that, I thought. Luckily, I held firm and told him, “I prefer to stay in my seat, sorry.” The guy walked away, and I kept my 37F window spot overlooking the beautiful mountains.

Luang Prabang is the most talked-about spot for tourists coming to Laos. And I needed to see why. I am a city person, but after exploring Vientiane, it made sense to see something else. The train ride from Vientiane was smooth and took only 2½ hours.

China laos railway — *The China- Laos Train*

A Golden Temple I Actually Liked

After arriving and checking into the Souphattra hotel (same brand as the one in Vientiane) the first point on my program was, yes, a golden temple. But this one (Wat Xieng Thong) was actually charming. The gold did not feel cheap. Elegant patterns and a nice layout. I later learned the temple had been restored with help from the French and US government not long ago. Who knows, maybe that was the reason.

Colonial Streets & Riverfront Walks

After that I went to other temples that were more in the strong gold line, but I also decided to check out the city center. On an e-scooter, which is fun. The city is charming. A mix between French colonial buildings and Laotian-designed buildings, restaurants, coffee shops, massage places and more.

The highlight is the riverfront. Especially near the Riverview Park and walking alongside the Nam Khan River. It’s charming and peaceful.

At the end of the day, I decided (as per the blog I read) to do a Mekong river cruise. Except for two enthusiastic talking Italians and a drunk boatman who kept cheering with me, the boat ride was peaceful.

Early at the Kuang Si Waterfall

The next day I got up early to see the Kuang Si waterfall. This is the number one attraction in Luang Prabang. Rightfully so, I learned. The waterfall is beautiful, with several plateaus to visit, surrounded by lush trees and clear blue water.

Happy to have listened to the driver who picked me up from the airport two days earlier: “Come at 8:30. You will be almost alone, and only an hour later hordes of people come.” Luckily, I am an early riser.

Phousi Mountain Surprise

After that I went back to the city and tried to get into the City Palace. Everyone was waiting for it to open (Google said 1 PM), but nothing seemed to be happening.

To kill time, I noticed a park entrance on the other side of the road, with stairs leading all the way up. On my way up I discovered this was the famed Phousi Mountain I had read about. Nice to discover it by surprise. It is a Buddhist mountain overlooking the whole city. There is something about places surrounded by mountains..

Phousi mountain — *View from Phousi Mountain*

The Royal Palace

When I got back, the Palace had opened. This is where, up until not too long ago, the Royal Family used to live. It was built in 1904 during the French colonial era. After renting long pants (shorts were not allowed!), I went in. I always like palaces where the rooms, furniture and details are still intact. You can connect and feel what had taken place. And this delivered.

Morning Charm Spot

The last morning I looked for charm spots on my scooter. And found one right behind a point where I was standing alone riverside with the rising sun. Right before the old French birdge (which is fun to cross also). I did have to pass an angry barking dog for it but it was worth it!

Later I went back to Vientiane airport, and about 10 minutes after my airplane took off to Shanghai I saw a lake with many, many islands in it. It looked truly beautiful. Upon searching later, I learned this is likely Nam Ngum Lake . Something to come back for!

Vientiane: The Quiet Capital

By Thijs February 14, 2026

I’ll be honest: the main reason I went to Vientiane was simply that I had never been there. Shanghai recently added direct flights, and I went in almost completely blank. I knew it was supposed to be peaceful, and that was about it.

The Arrival & Souphattra Hotel

We landed around midnight. Getting into a taxi was interesting. The driver turned the wheel left and right constantly, and I had some suspicion his eyesight wasn’t the best. Luckily this is Laos and the streets were completely empty, unusual for an Asian capital, even at midnight. But in this case, a lifesaver.

I arrived at Souphattra Hotel in the peaceful embassy district. Again: silence. No one there except the receptionist. The English level in Laos is a bit more challenging compared to its neighbors, and I got my first taste of that at check-in. Interestingly, some staff spoke Chinese, so I ended up using my Mandarin to communicate.

This hotel, which only opened in 2024, is unusual in that it delivers international luxury standards while being locally owned. It’s located in a quiet district, yet everything is within easy walking distance.

A Walkable City

The next morning, I walked. That is the first thing that sets Vientiane apart from cities like Bangkok or Jakarta: it is actually walkable. Not Shanghai or Singapore walkable, but good enough. And for me, that feels like freedom.

I picked up a coffee at Starbucks and started to explore. Vientiane doesn’t have a great reputation online. Many people say “skip it” and head straight to Luang Prabang (where I’d go later). I always wonder what that means if people say a city is boring. Does it mean the general vibe, or a lack of attractions or sights? I was about to find out!

Golden Temples & The Dutch Connection

I started at COPE, a center that Barack Obama visited about ten years ago, dedicated to supporting people with disabilities caused by the relentless bombing campaigns of the 1970s.

After that, I walked to several of the famous temples. I have to admit: I’m not a fan of the “golden temple” aesthetic. To me, they often feel too glittery, too intense, too overloaded with color, almost overdone. They lack the quiet mystery of ancient stone sites like those you find in Siem Reap or Delhi.

I visited Wat Ho Phra Keo, a former temple that once housed the Emerald Buddha. The statue itself is surprisingly small, yet it is considered deeply sacred and now resides in Bangkok. Interesting..

I also went to the most famous Pha That Luang, the golden symbol of the country. Apparently, a Dutch explorer named Gerrit van Wuysthoff arrived here (as the first ever European to visit) on an invite from the King centuries ago. Standing in the exact same place where a fellow Dutchman stood 300 years ago… Context matters.

I visited a few other temples as well, and the somewhat forced Buddha Park just outside the city. The local Arc de Triomphe, Patuxai, is also worth a stop. But whether a place impresses you or not, going there gets you moving. You walk, you drive, you notice things. You start to feel the rhythm of the city. Often, the journey matters more than the destination.

Colonial & Old Center and great vegan food

An area that I started to like more was around an ancient Stupa called the That Dam (Black Stupa). Around it were colonial buildings and cafes. I am always drawn to former colonial areas somehow. And I am not the only one. With its French past, Vientiane houses many colonial buildings. I did not find a beautiful cohesive colonial district like in Shanghai, Hanoi, or even Phnom Penh; in Vientiane, things are a bit more messy and scattered. But still it is there.

This area led me to the hotspot for tourists: the downtown area close to the Mekong River and the night market. It is full of bars, restaurants, yoga studios, massage places, and hotels. Many international tourists. The vibe here is definitely the most “happening” you will get in Vientiane. And i found myself going back here from time to time. I ate fantastic vegan food in a charming French restaurant La Cage Du Coq. As often the best vegan food can be found in non-vegan restaurants!

The Mekong Walk

The next day I decided to spend time walking the Mekong River on both sides. The rows of bars were fun, but to the north, the pedestrian side narrows down with no guardrails on one side. Even though it was elevated, I started to feel a bit uncomfortable (luckily I survived!).

Further south along the Mekong, I walked to the Chinese embassy area. Lush houses and buildings are spread around here. But the Mekong is at its best at sunset. Looking across the water, realizing that the lights on the other bank are Thailand, has a quiet sort of magic. I saw a bar called Kong View that looked like a great spot to take it all in.

The Lao Art Museum Surprise

I had a third day because I couldn’t get a ticket to Luang Prabang, and this actually gave me a surprise. En route to the Laos National Museum, the cab driver advised me to go to the Lao Art Museum located outside of the city instead. I wasn’t planning on it, the National Museum had been a bit outdated, but I decided to give it a try.

I am so glad I did. It was a “wow” experience. The building itself is beautiful, the kind of temple vibe I want to see. More delicate, with a nice, dimly lit, classy interior. The museum hosts wood-crafted objects and characters. The entrance features incredible wooden pillars and carved figures that set a magical tone immediately. It was a museum done right, with a peaceful garden to sit in afterwards.