Qingdao, 2 days of coastal vibes and heritage charm
There is something about cities that once hosted the Olympics or a World Cup. When I walked from my hotel to the Qingdao Marina on my first morning, I felt that vibe. It had once been the center of world’s attention.
In Qingdao’s case, hosting the sailing competitions of the Beijing 2008 Olympics left behind a clean marina, a nicely placed large torch surrounded by Olympic and national flags, and a layout that still looks the part. Early in the morning, I found myself almost alone, alongside a few joggers, enjoying the sea breeze and sunny Qingdao weather.
After wandering around the marina, I continued along the coastline. People were relaxed, sitting in lounge chairs, sipping orange juice and looking out over the sea. The mix of beach, marina and modern skyscrapers makes Qingdao known as one of the best livable cities in China.
But as often, it was history that became the biggest draw.. Around 30 minutes walking from the marina, I wandered into an area that felt prettier and prettier. Tree-lined ocean walkways, viewpoints, leafy streets with what looked like colonial villas, and small parks with quiet pathways. I later learned this was the Badeguan scenic area, built between 1900 and 1930 by German and other European settlers.
The area is well preserved by the local government and remains peaceful. It feels like a quieter version of the French Concession in Shanghai, but then by the ocean.
Walking further, I entered Qingdao’s old commercial town. Also built in the same period, this was the more commercial side. Today, many local restaurants and shops have taken over, but some impressive historic buildings remain. The St. Michael’s Cathedral stands out, as well as a few former administrative buildings from the German period.
I ended the day at the Tsingtau Club, once a clubhouse for European residents. The name reflects the early spelling of what became China’s most famous beer: Tsingtao.
Tsingtao Beer Museum
The next day I visited the Tsingtao Beer Museum, located in the original brewery. The visit was a bit chaotic. I was assigned an “English-speaking” guide, who I think had memorised the exact words to say at each stop, but without really speaking the language…
It made the explanations hard to follow, and with the guide moving quickly there was little time to read the signs. Still, I got the general idea and it was a fun visit. Learning about the history and ending with a fresh Tsingtao beer was a nice touch. After drinking so many of them over the years in China, it felt right to finally visit where it all started for me.
That afternoon I returned to Badeguan. To wander again, sit in the parks, and imagine the life that once was there, and in many ways still is. Some villas are open to the public, and I visited a few, including the Huashi (Flower Stone) House, a castle-like residence built by a wealthy Chinese merchant in the early 1900’s.
Reflection
Qingdao surprised me. It has more to offer than I expected: coastal, relaxed, with real charm in places like Badeguan, combined with history, beer culture and a modern side.
Qingdao might no longer be at the center of the world’s attention, but it doesn’t need to be. And with only a 40-minute flight from Shanghai, it makes for a perfect few days away.
