I’ll be honest: the main reason I went to Vientiane was simply that I had never been there. Shanghai recently added direct flights, and I went in almost completely blank. I knew it was supposed to be peaceful, and that was about it.
The Arrival & Souphattra Hotel
We landed around midnight. Getting into a taxi was interesting. The driver turned the wheel left and right constantly, and I had some suspicion his eyesight wasn’t the best. Luckily this is Laos and the streets were completely empty, unusual for an Asian capital, even at midnight. But in this case, a lifesaver.
I arrived at Souphattra Hotel in the peaceful embassy district. Again: silence. No one there except the receptionist. The English level in Laos is a bit more challenging compared to its neighbors, and I got my first taste of that at check-in. Interestingly, some staff spoke Chinese, so I ended up using my Mandarin to communicate.
This hotel, which only opened in 2024, is unusual in that it delivers international luxury standards while being locally owned. It’s located in a quiet district, yet everything is within easy walking distance.
A Walkable City
The next morning, I walked. That is the first thing that sets Vientiane apart from cities like Bangkok or Jakarta: it is actually walkable. Not Shanghai or Singapore walkable, but good enough. And for me, that feels like freedom.
I picked up a coffee at Starbucks and started to explore. Vientiane doesn’t have a great reputation online. Many people say “skip it” and head straight to Luang Prabang (where I’d go later). I always wonder what that means if people say a city is boring. Does it mean the general vibe, or a lack of attractions or sights? I was about to find out!
Golden Temples & The Dutch Connection
I started at COPE, a center that Barack Obama visited about ten years ago, dedicated to supporting people with disabilities caused by the relentless bombing campaigns of the 1970s.
After that, I walked to several of the famous temples. I have to admit: I’m not a fan of the “golden temple” aesthetic. To me, they often feel too glittery, too intense, too overloaded with color, almost overdone. They lack the quiet mystery of ancient stone sites like those you find in Siem Reap or Delhi.
I visited Wat Ho Phra Keo, a former temple that once housed the Emerald Buddha. The statue itself is surprisingly small, yet it is considered deeply sacred and now resides in Bangkok. Interesting..
I also went to the most famous Pha That Luang, the golden symbol of the country. Apparently, a Dutch explorer named Gerrit van Wuysthoff arrived here (as the first ever European to visit) on an invite from the King centuries ago. Standing in the exact same place where a fellow Dutchman stood 300 years ago… Context matters.
I visited a few other temples as well, and the somewhat forced Buddha Park just outside the city. The local Arc de Triomphe, Patuxai, is also worth a stop. But whether a place impresses you or not, going there gets you moving. You walk, you drive, you notice things. You start to feel the rhythm of the city. Often, the journey matters more than the destination.
Colonial & Old Center and great vegan food
An area that I started to like more was around an ancient Stupa called the That Dam (Black Stupa). Around it were colonial buildings and cafes. I am always drawn to former colonial areas somehow. And I am not the only one. With its French past, Vientiane houses many colonial buildings. I did not find a beautiful cohesive colonial district like in Shanghai, Hanoi, or even Phnom Penh; in Vientiane, things are a bit more messy and scattered. But still it is there.
This area led me to the hotspot for tourists: the downtown area close to the Mekong River and the night market. It is full of bars, restaurants, yoga studios, massage places, and hotels. Many international tourists. The vibe here is definitely the most “happening” you will get in Vientiane. And i found myself going back here from time to time. I ate fantastic vegan food in a charming French restaurant La Cage Du Coq. As often the best vegan food can be found in non-vegan restaurants!
The Mekong Walk
The next day I decided to spend time walking the Mekong River on both sides. The rows of bars were fun, but to the north, the pedestrian side narrows down with no guardrails on one side. Even though it was elevated, I started to feel a bit uncomfortable (luckily I survived!).
Further south along the Mekong, I walked to the Chinese embassy area. Lush houses and buildings are spread around here. But the Mekong is at its best at sunset. Looking across the water, realizing that the lights on the other bank are Thailand, has a quiet sort of magic. I saw a bar called Kong View that looked like a great spot to take it all in.
The Lao Art Museum Surprise
I had a third day because I couldn’t get a ticket to Luang Prabang, and this actually gave me a surprise. En route to the Laos National Museum, the cab driver advised me to go to the Lao Art Museum located outside of the city instead. I wasn’t planning on it, the National Museum had been a bit outdated, but I decided to give it a try.
I am so glad I did. It was a “wow” experience. The building itself is beautiful, the kind of temple vibe I want to see. More delicate, with a nice, dimly lit, classy interior. The museum hosts wood-crafted objects and characters. The entrance features incredible wooden pillars and carved figures that set a magical tone immediately. It was a museum done right, with a peaceful garden to sit in afterwards.
Reflection
Vientiane is a low-shiny, low-pressure city. It doesn’t have endless “must-see” monuments. But it has things to explore and is interesting enough. The people are also very kind and gentle.
My personal favorites were the vibrant old city around the night market, walking past the Mekong River, and the Lao Art Museum. For hotel I strongly recommend Souphattra Hotel and for food La Cage Du Coq. Next stop Luang Prabang.
