“I would like to sit here, can we switch?” This came from a scary-looking foreign tourist on the China–Laos train bound for Luang Prabang. It was a bit of a shock, why would someone even ask that, I thought. Luckily, I held firm and told him, “I prefer to stay in my seat, sorry.” The guy walked away, and I kept my 37F window spot overlooking the beautiful mountains.
Luang Prabang is the most talked-about spot for tourists coming to Laos. And I needed to see why. I am a city person, but after exploring Vientiane, it made sense to see something else. The train ride from Vientiane was smooth and took only 2½ hours.
A Golden Temple I Actually Liked
After arriving and checking into the Souphattra hotel (same brand as the one in Vientiane) the first point on my program was, yes, a golden temple. But this one (Wat Xieng Thong) was actually charming. The gold did not feel cheap. Elegant patterns and a nice layout. I later learned the temple had been restored with help from the French and US government not long ago. Who knows, maybe that was the reason.
Colonial Streets & Riverfront Walks
After that I went to other temples that were more in the strong gold line, but I also decided to check out the city center. On an e-scooter, which is fun. The city is charming. A mix between French colonial buildings and Laotian-designed buildings, restaurants, coffee shops, massage places and more.
The highlight is the riverfront. Especially near the Riverview Park and walking alongside the Nam Khan River. It’s charming and peaceful.
At the end of the day, I decided (as per the blog I read) to do a Mekong river cruise. Except for two enthusiastic talking Italians and a drunk boatman who kept cheering with me, the boat ride was peaceful.
Early at the Kuang Si Waterfall
The next day I got up early to see the Kuang Si waterfall. This is the number one attraction in Luang Prabang. Rightfully so, I learned. The waterfall is beautiful, with several plateaus to visit, surrounded by lush trees and clear blue water.
Happy to have listened to the driver who picked me up from the airport two days earlier: “Come at 8:30. You will be almost alone, and only an hour later hordes of people come.” Luckily, I am an early riser.
Phousi Mountain Surprise
After that I went back to the city and tried to get into the City Palace. Everyone was waiting for it to open (Google said 1 PM), but nothing seemed to be happening.
To kill time, I noticed a park entrance on the other side of the road, with stairs leading all the way up. On my way up I discovered this was the famed Phousi Mountain I had read about. Nice to discover it by surprise. It is a Buddhist mountain overlooking the whole city. There is something about places surrounded by mountains..
The Royal Palace
When I got back, the Palace had opened. This is where, up until not too long ago, the Royal Family used to live. It was built in 1904 during the French colonial era. After renting long pants (shorts were not allowed!), I went in. I always like palaces where the rooms, furniture and details are still intact. You can connect and feel what had taken place. And this delivered.
Morning Charm Spot
The last morning I looked for charm spots on my scooter. And found one right behind a point where I was standing alone riverside with the rising sun. Right before the old French birdge (which is fun to cross also). I did have to pass an angry barking dog for it but it was worth it!
Later I went back to Vientiane airport, and about 10 minutes after my airplane took off to Shanghai I saw a lake with many, many islands in it. It looked truly beautiful. Upon searching later, I learned this is likely Nam Ngum Lake . Something to come back for!
