Is Abu Dhabi Worth Visiting? My 3 Days of Calm & Surprises

Abu Dhabi. What did I really know about this city? Well, not much. It was also never on my “list” so to speak. But it was too close to Dubai to ignore, and I did hear some nice things about it in the past. A quiet and more cultural city than Dubai was my general impression. The right mix between Doha and Dubai I also heard. I was about to find out.

Downtown Abu Dhabi: First Impressions

After a 1.5-hour drive from Dubai I arrived in the older central part of Abu Dhabi, where my hotel was supposed to be. When I saw it, I felt disappointed. A lot of plain, older buildings and towers. I was a bit surprised, maybe I expected a newer city like Doha? Luckily something went wrong with the booking and I got the chance to change hotels.

I ended up at Al Maryah Island, a very different world compared to downtown. The Rosewood hotel is part of a newly developed, very fancy shopping complex called The Galleria. In the Middle East they take malls and airports to a different level, especially in newer cities like Abu Dhabi and Doha.

This part was so quiet. At night when I walked by the river I felt like I was in Europe, hardly a sound. The Europe feeling was also boosted by the Cleveland Clinic, which was next to us. Unusual to see a hospital so prominently displayed like here. Why that reminds me of Europe / the Netherlands I could not explain, but it does …

A calm mind helps with planning, so that night I made my 3-day plan with the kind concierge of the hotel. Yet my best moments would come from a person who lives there and something unexpected. It is interesting that with all the info available you still need an old-fashioned tip and a surprise. But that is what keeps travel fun.

Louvre Abu Dhabi & The Robotaxi Experience

The first morning I headed to the Louvre on Saadiyat Island. I never visited the one in Paris, so at least this felt like something. The atmosphere was calm and sophisticated. The museum shows many pieces and aims to bridge Arab and Western art and history. Artefact art museums somehow never “wow” me, but it was a pleasant visit.

Call me a cultural barbarian, but my actual wow-moment had to come from Uber, no less, at the Louvre parking lot 🤣. My phone notified me I had been assigned an autonomous taxi. A first for me. I felt excited. Everything was controlled from my phone: unlocking the door, starting the ride, deciding when to leave. When I got inside I noticed two things. First, Chinese characters everywhere. Second, there was still a “driver” present. He explained that all the technology, car and software, was developed in China, and he had to be there for assistance and reporting if things went wrong. The ride was smooth except for one moment where the car got confused at a random yellow-light situation. The driver intervened and reported it in the system. “Still some way to go,” I thought.

Qasr Al Hosn & Downtown Abu Dhabi: mixed impressions

The WeRide robotaxi brought me to downtown Abu Dhabi so I could visit Qasr Al Hosn, which intrigued me. I like seeing actual settings or simulations of how people lived more than looking at single art pieces, and this place offered that. Built in 1761, it’s one of the oldest stone buildings in Abu Dhabi. A fort, later used as the residence of the ruling sheikh and his family. Much of it is still intact, and with the quiet atmosphere it turned into an interesting afternoon.

The famous Qasr Al Watan was closed for the days I was in Abu Dhabi, so I did not get to visit. The Emirates Heritage Village was over-touristic and outdated.

Afterwards I walked through downtown and the Corniche. Both felt a bit old and neglected. I started to see Abu Dhabi has two parts: the older (not ancient), not-so-nice part and the more fancy newer parts. It is a bit of a contrast. Very different from Doha or Dubai.

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

My second full day turned out to be the most magical, for two reasons.

First, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. I have never been into churches, but I seem to be into mosques lately , at least since Istanbul. Something exotic and beautiful about them, or maybe just new to me.

This mosque was grand (third biggest in the world) and tasteful, both outside and inside. A highlight was the huge diamond-lit chandeliers inside. The visit is not too long, but powerful. And you can take photos as you wish, unless posing with your thumbs up, which made the guard close to me unhappy. So be warned!

Hidden Gem: Tashas Al Bateen

Then came the local charm tip, which was my highlight. I asked a friend from China who lives in Abu Dhabi where a “hidden nice spot” was, because I hadn’t really found one yet. Tashas Al Bateen was the recommendation. Apparently a restaurant/bar.

The Indian Uber driver took me to a deserted parking lot south of the center. On the way he told me he preferred not to pick up local UAE people because they could “make trouble about anything,” and that he was happy to pick me up. At least I felt welcome in his car!

Then we arrived at Tashas Al Bateen. I had this very charming and calm feeling coming over me the moment I stepped out of the car. The area was local, quiet and charming. A very local marina, nature dunes, water, historic forts, all non-touristic and authentic. And the bar was located at the perfect spot. It was the nicest place I had visited in Abu Dhabi.

I wandered more afterwards: the marina on the other side, the Edition hotel was close. And again, so quiet….

Yas Island: Malls & Theme Parks

The last day I decided to head to Yas Island, the newly developed entertainment zone, to get a total overview of the city. I went to the Yas Mall, saw the entrances to Ferrari World and Warner Bros World, huge state-of-the-art modern theme parks. I guess this is their way to make sure a good flow of tourists and families keep coming.

After that I walked through the modern marina and saw the F1 track where the race would start only two weeks later. The island was again its own world and different from the other parts. No wow moment on this day, except for a well-deserved Chinese brand bubble tea.

Abu Dhabi Trip Reflection

I came here without really having much of an opinion of Abu Dhabi. Strangely, I leave with almost the same feeling. I was ok with it, comfortable. I had some wow moments, some down moments, and I felt more relaxed than in Dubai. But maybe the strange mix between the uncharming downtown and the spread-out newer parts left me a bit mellow, not clicking. It lacked consistency maybe. Where Doha does that better in my opinion. Or who knows, I could have also just been tired from being away from home for long…. Context matters. It was time to go back to Shanghai.

Read my honest take on the neighbour next door: Dubai: Honest 3 day Review